Does Fairtrade hurt the fine craft chocolate industry?
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I often boast to my customers that all of the chocolate bars I sell (and nearly all the brands on the Bean To Bar App) are not Fairtrade certified, and that it’s a good thing. Their eyes go wide and they gaze with astonishment. However, after I explain that these bars go above Fairtrade standards, they seem to be more at ease. It’s interesting to me how easily people buy into these sort of concepts. As if relying on certifications is truly the way to go. Relying on a food certification is essentially putting your trust in people and organizations, who you do not know at all, and who are still quite removed from the actual process of growing and selling cacao. When you have less of a stake in the matter, you’re not going to make the best choices for those who actually do. As well, organizations like this still absorb a great deal of the resources that in the end would be better left in the hands of growers. A better approach is to be informed about where you cacao comes from (giving a platform/voice to those actually growing it - which is possible) and basing your decisions on what you know, not simply what you are told (which is essentially what a certification does).
This is why most bean-to-bar makers are very transparent about where their cacao comes from and what is going on at the level of where it is grown. It’s not perfect - nor will it be - but it’s about being as honest as possible and sharing that information with the consumer in a way that is genuine is actually making a difference, not just implying it is. There’s a growing number of chocolate makers who either live in the country the cacao is grown (less disconnect), visit and buy directly from farmers, or even grow their own cacao as well. The goal of any “fair-trade” concept is not just about money, but about closing the disconnect between consumer-maker-grower. In an ideal situation, both growers and makers would negotiate a price that works for both (without one being at the complete mercy of the other or an intermediate organization there to get in the way).
Whether you support Fairtrade products or not is besides the point here. The point here is to be aware of the implications of purchasing Fairtrade chocolate bars has on the growers, to you as a consumer, and to the craft of fine chocolate making. So how does purchasing fair-trade certified chocolate bars/brands hurt the fine chocolate industry?
Fairtrade is not synonymous with quality & flavour
For some reason, it’s seeped into the subconscious of most consumers that when they see a Fairtrade (FT) certification on a product, that somehow the farmers are paid fairly but also that the quality of the food is greater than the non-certified. Some of that might have to do with large companies such as Starbucks who promoted their Fairtrade coffee as also higher quality coffee (but was it?). The truth is, there is absolutely no mention of flavour and quality of the cocoa (or other food for that matter) in regards to FT certification. The product may be associated with criteria such as better wages, better working conditions, and perhaps the use of less harmful chemicals in the field (for both humans and environment). However, at the end of the day, the cacao is still not fine flavoured cacao. At the end of it, the chocolate and cocoa products made from this FT cacao is not of of greater value where quality of the product is concerned.
One may think, if I have to buy a mediocre product, I rather pay a little more to make sure that people on the other end are not being exploited. True, some people may think this way, but most do not. A study here looks at the values people say they have towards food purchasing, compared to the products they actually purchase. What one says they value is often not reflected with their purchasing behaviours. Most people are willing to spend a little more for products where people at the other end are less exploited, but they want to get something more from it. That usually means better flavour and quality food.
When we purchase products, we have a series of filters we use. For me, my first filter (without tasting the product) is ingredients. For many who use Fairtrade as their first filter when purchasing chocolate cancel out the most well-crafted highest quality chocolate on the market today. Nearly every brand of fine chocolate on the market may use cacao that is above Fairtrade standards in many ways, but do not have the certification. Most of the best bean-to-bar brands today are (compared to multinational industrial chocolate manufacturers) very small scale. The bureaucracy and investment required would not make any sense for most of them (especially if they do not have investors). That money is better used to pay farmers more (if paying direct) or to re-invest in their business. The prices of their bars are already much higher than Fairtrade certified chocolate bars made with mediocre cacao, and having certification on top of that would make it even more expensive. Most consumers if using Fairtrade certification as their first purchasing filter, thinking all else is equal and both of Fairtrade, will opt for the less expensive Fairtrade chocolate bar (the one made by bulk or mediocre cacao that in most cases has less of a positive impact at the level of the growers). So in a way, the Fairtrade certification pulls consumers away from better quality chocolate made with cacao sold at above Fairtrade standards.
Fairtrade does not do much of what it professes to do
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In theory, Fairtrade practises are beneficial. However, what started off with good intentions, and perhaps started the journey towards a better way of doing business, eventually faces the pressures of the real world and things begin to fall apart. Especially when an organization becomes as big as Fairtrade, it becomes harder for them to be connected with the people they wish to help. The initial concept of giving the growers more say in what they will or can sell their goods for eventually has them at the mercy of agencies such as Fairtrade. This runs counterintuitive to the whole idea of how Fairtrade started. It seems today the organizations or businesses doing the best work to improve the livelihoods of those on the growing end of our food system tend to be smaller organizations with less of a “corporate” top-down mentality which appears not to work for fair-trade agencies. If you skim through the research summery linked above here, you’ll have a clearer idea of what I mean.
Again, my stance is not to demonize or shame an organization who has tried to improve these standards, or who has to some degree, or belittle them because they are a “large” organization. The point is that we have look objectively at their data, their reports, and ask if it’s still worth it. Can a consumer truly be assured they are making a difference by purchasing Fairtrade certified chocolate? Does the money and investment actually make it to where the consumer thinks its going? Many farmers who are supposed to sell their cacao at Fairtrade prices are sometimes (or often) told their cacao is not needed, or only a portion of it is. In the end, much of their cacao ends up being sold at the lowest market price. And the interesting point here is they are still the ones fueling the Fairtrade buyers and organization, yet often get the short end of the stick. Don’t get me wrong, for some it may be working well for them or at least better than Not being Fairtrade certified. This is not a call to dismantle it, but to make you aware of it’s limitations. If in the end the growers/farmers are at the mercy of others to dictate how much they can sell and what they can sell it for even under the umbrella of Fairtrade, perhaps it’s not quite working out as it should be.
Simple Solutions and strategies
So, what is the solution? What can a consumer do to make better choices if the concept of fair-trade is important to them? Many people often don’t like this answer, but if you truly do care about the concept that growers of your food deserve a fair compensation, you do have to take it upon yourself to do some extra work. Never will relying on a stamp to ease your conscious be the best solution. This idea of passive compassion will not help in the long run. This concept of relying on a third party who is to a degree still very disconnected from those selling and buying the cacao is not good enough.
If you truly do wish to make real change, you need to be willing to do some work yourself. It’s interesting to me, but I find those who preach the most about Fairtrade are those who are so unwilling to do the work it takes to understand where their food is coming from. Who often tell me “it’s unreasonable to expect people to do that work”. It’s unreasonable to expect everyone to do that work. I see myself that many people today have their ears open - willing to hear how they can make a positive influence in the world. It’s certainly reasonable for those who truly do care, and don’t just say they care. It also doesn’t require as much work as you may think.
Source A transparent Bean-to-bar maker
How do you go about to find the brands that are transparent about their sources? Whose values align with yours. I admit, this initial part is daunting. You can’t rely on the chocolate shelves at your Wholefoods and co-op for high quality chocolate that goes above Fairtrade standards. Most I’ve visited carry a range of certified brands that are very mediocre in both flavour and ingredients. Remember, there are brands that go above Fairtrade standards and have incredible flavour and quality as well.
This is why years ago I developed the first Bean To Bar Map, which is now an app, which locates the transparent craft bean-to-bar chocolate makers around the world. These makers are small-scale. Think of them as your local winery or cheese maker - that no one outside your town really knows about. I created the app for this purpose - so consumers can find them. You can visit them in person or their online shop and buy directly from them. This is ideal. You can also buy from a craft bean-to-bar retailer who carries a range of bars from these same makers. Of course, you can also purchase some of those brands here in the online shop (a small curated collection of amazing brands and bars). That said, there are other retailers on the app that may make more sense logistically for you to purchase from, and I encourage you to check them out.
Keep in mind these are makers who are going out of their way to source incredible cacao either through reputable and transparent brokers, or directly themselves. You may then ask, can I trust every single listing on the app? I do my best to keep things in check, but I can’t have a real-time assessment of every bean-to-bar business and their sources. This is why I encourage consumers to read the fine print on the labels of a bar (bean-to-bar makers are usually good and being direct about it). Also, visit their website. Even when you are standing in the isle deciding if it’s worth it to purchase a bar in-line with your values, it only takes a few clicks to find the information you need. Most of us around the world have smartphones. We have this convenient technology, so why not use it in ways that benefit us most? Most bean-to-bar makers will include information either on their home page, about me page, or their process pages, and offer a clear account of their chocolate process and their cacao sources. Many list not only the country of origin, but the region, the co-op, and sometimes the farm if it is a single-estate bar. The most transparent makers will tell you not only what country the cacao is from, but what co-op, region, and as much information as possible. A big difference between industrial chocolate manufacturers and your small craft chocolate makers is the care they put into knowing where their main ingredient comes from. Remember, they are not only sources cacao that eschews slave labour and unethical treatment, but also take into account quality and flavour to produce the best chocolate possible. Fairtrade brands do not take into consideration the later, and certainly not to this extent.
Contact them and ask them what you need to know
Still not convinced by reading the bar label? I do admit, some makers don’t do the best job showcasing this information even if they are doing it (which is unfortunate for them). So if you like what you see in regards to ingredients, and appreciate the flavour and quality of the bar, but still have unanswered questions - contact them! The goal of being a conscious consumer is you only have to do this once. I’m sure many of you buy a specific brand of wine, or flour, or cheese, or bread from a specific bakery because you love the products. You use them in your cooking or to share with guests because you’re proud of how incredible they are and/or the values of the manufacturers. Well, the truth is the same should apply to your chocolate purchases. Perhaps you ask your local baker, butcher, or online shop questions about their products before purchasing. Do the same with your chocolate maker. Find a brand or a few brands you love, do your due diligence, and you’re all set. If you have a local maker in your city or region, and you love their product - get to know them by visiting them, their website, or email them any questions you have. Most love being open and honest with their customers, and pride themselves on being able to share with you the information on where cacao comes from.
Remember that when you’re dealing with manufacturers of the best chocolate in the world, they are almost always small-scale entrepreneurs. They are proud of the work they do, and if you’ve met many chocolate makers, you see how passionate they are about where they source their cacao as well. They too love knowing exactly where their cacao comes from and how those growing it are benefiting. They either know this first hand if they are buying or visiting directly, or from brokers and buyers who have the same mindset. It’s not just about a delicious product for them, but a product that allows the growers to have a livelihood that is sustainable and encouraging for them.
If it’s truly important to you that the food you consume is not only good for you, but that it does not exploit others along the way, you need to start making food choices based on what you know to be true, not what you think may be true or what you assume. That means looking past certifications, and getting to the source of that information. Learn about the makers of the brands you love, ask them questions. In the end, this little bit of work for you makes a world of difference to the chocolate craftsman around the world and the growers they rely on who make it all possible. It’s a network of relationships that includes you, and as a consumer all you need to do is take a moment to be a little more informed.